
"I'm not waiting in line to get in to no god-damn bar," said my short, fat, gay, Indian companion. There was a long line outside the bar early on Saturday night. The sidewalk was narrow and they had a police barricade keeping the people from blocking it. It was five thirty and the rest of the block was deserted. We were at McSorley's.
There were two large men smoking outside the door. One looked over at us. "He's not Indian like that." The man laughed and gave me a cigarette. He had impossibly bowed legs and a gut that hung halfway down his crotch. "Doug," he said and shook my hand, "but youc'n call me Precious." He thought that was hilarious. So did his friend. Doug had a long scraggly goatee and a pony tail coming out of the back of his New Jersey Transit baseball cap. He told me he was a train conductor and that we were with him. "You don't have to wait in no line."
Two women followed us in and as we pressed through the crush they were prodded, cajoled, and tormented by terrible men. These predators are the reason for the Sunday morning Horror. A pack of dogs, drunk before seven in the oldest working saloon in New York. It smells bad at McSorley's. You get two beers for the price of one. A set, they call it. You may have light or dark, but it doesn't matter, both taste like fish. Flat, viscous, slightly warm beer served in hastily rinsed glasses. Doug told us they were going to Jack Dempsey's right after. He's kind of friends with the owner and he gets hooked up. Then Doug forgot about us.
McSorley's never cleans. They still throw down sawdust in case some one throws up or is bleeding everywhere. There is a lamp near the center of the bar with tendrils of dust hanging off of it, and something else I couldn't discern. "Dude," another large man told me, "the lamp has wishbones on it. They'd hang a wishbone on the lamp when a sailor went to sea. If he never came back, the wishbone would never come off. It's beautiful, bro. Beautiful." Groups of men punching each other on the arms. One man had bought a McSorley's tee shirt and was wearing it over a dress shirt. "Do you think maybe you hit an age where you don't go some places?" I said. My companion wanted to know where the hell the pisser was. "They don't have a ladies room," I said.
Doug told a woman at the bar that she wanted to ride him like a Rigid down a bumpy road. She smiled prettily and tried not to say anything. Doug looked satisfied. My companion was still in the pisser and I pushed my way out of this vile trap. I couldn't breathe. One man took a cowboy hat off another man and put it on. "I'm a goddamn cowboy!" I opened the door and lit another cigarette. I'd never return. It's become a joke and a must-see in the tourist books. A filthy hole masquerading in the light of tradition. They don't have to clean the lines because they've never cleaned them. The bartenders are laughing at you. Joseph Mitchell's vision of the Wonderful Saloon no longer exists. All that's left is a coal fire and the wishbones.